Van Stokes, the U.S. Team Leader for the freestyle trip to Iran this past week, gives his perspective of the unique tour. Stokes has been a team leader on a past U.S. tour to Iran.

Wednesday, August 4
Wrestling with Iran in 2010

The United States and Iran are considered by many to be among the top countries in the world in Olympic-Style Wrestling. Naturally, there is a strong relationship between these two countries that revolves around competition in this sport. Recently, USA Wrestling, the National Governing Body for the sport of wrestling in America, sent a freestyle team to compete in Iran. The following thoughts and views recount the impressions of that visit. 

The Trip
	
We came from different cities and met in Chicago. We were fairly easy to spot since most of us had something that identified us with the sport of wrestling. For some, it was the ears, while others had sports gear or shirts with a familiar logo, or simply the wrestler’s backpack thrown over one shoulder.  

Quickly, members from USA Wrestling’s National Team assembled near the gate and boarded the plane for Frankfurt. We were headed to the 1st International Habibi & Movahed Cup Wrestling Tournament in Qaemshahr, Iran, on the last day of July and the first day of August.  

Ask anyone from there and they will tell you that this area is the heart of wrestling in Iran. On the mats Iran is one of the best wrestling countries in the world. Every wrestler on the international level is aware of this fact.

From the beginning, people were interested in our trip.  In Frankfurt, while waiting for our plane to Tehran, we were approached by different people of Iranian descent who wondered why we were going to Iran. When we told them that we were invited to wrestle in Iran, many people quickly understood.
	
One man, an Iranian-American from Los Angeles, was among the first to speak to us. He talked about living in America for 27 years, as well as his country of Iran. It was easy to see that he had a heart for each one of his countries. His friendliness helped set the tone for the trip.  

Our flight to Iran was full. Noticeably, only a few of the women had their heads covered. As we began preparations to land in Tehran, the flight attendants reminded everyone that all women in the country must have their heads covered.

When we deplaned, the head of every woman from our aircraft was covered, including the flight crew. It was the first reminder that we were in a country different than our own. 

Once we had our bags, Amir Bashiri was there to meet us and would again serve as our interpreter and liaison with our hosts. Having grown up in Iran for the first 27 years of his life, he has lived in Atlanta since 1985. He knows both worlds very well and is a goodwill ambassador in every respect. 

Amir has been a great friend of USA Wrestling and has assisted on previous trips to Iran.  His understanding of the two cultures makes him the consummate bridge-builder. He is a diplomat extraordinaire who easily shows sensitivity and understanding to everyone in the multi-cultural arena of international wrestling in Iran.  

Thanks to Amir, we are able to move easily through the myriad of details that surround an event of this stature. A camera crew was waiting for interviews in Tehran and Amir eased into his role and translated with skill and ease.

Upon leaving the airport in Tehran, we boarded a bus and headed for Sari where our hotel was located. The terrain was mountainous and the road wound its way up the hills and into the valleys. We stopped four times to check-in with the traffic police and once for the bus driver to eat.

Seven hours after arriving in Tehran, we arrived in Sari where we were greeted with flowers by the Director of the Wrestling Federation for the province of Mazandaran.   Our hotel was very accommodating, and we were soon asleep in our rooms trying to get some rest before an afternoon workout.

The People

Our hosts and the people we met were gracious and kind. They were genuinely concerned about our stay in Iran and were helpful in every way. Mostly, our needs were simple. They included requests for bottled water, fruit, transportation, sauna, juice, practice times, schedules and other various items.  

Whether we were in the hotel or training in a nearby facility, we were frequently asked if there was anything we needed. Clearly, our hosts were committed to treating us as someone would treat a guest in their home. Like their security detail, their kindness was ever present. Frequently we were asked if there was anything else we needed.  

During our first practice, Mr. H. Dabaghi, a six-time national champion in Iran, brought his three young nephews to watch practice.  They were kept at a distance, perhaps because someone thought that they would be an intrusion. At our request, they entered the area and stood along the side of the mat.

Soon, many of our team members approached them and spoke with the young boys. Amidst smiles, Coach Bill Zadick moved onto the mat and went through a few moves with one of the young Iranians. 

After a couple of moves and several more smiles, a friendship had been formed and a lasting memory had been etched in the mind of the young Iranian. This is the nature of our sport.
	
Security was not a problem. Whenever we went to practice, or left the hotel, we had our own bus and driver, a translator assigned by the host, and one or more Iranians responsible for security. They became a part of our team.  
	
City Life

Our hotel was in the city of Sari located about 240 kilometers from Tehran. Unlike the barren mountains northeast of Tehran, the land around Sari was green and bright. The sun’s light seemed to reflect the Caspian Sea which is only 25 kilometers north of the city. Qaemshahr was only ten minutes down the road.  

Sari, only ten minutes from Qaemshahr, was a bustling place with busy streets and many stores. Trees lined many of the streets and several traffic circles helped people merge from different directions. It is home to approximately 500,000 Iranians with over a million living in the area. 

Throughout the city, cars and pedestrians seemed to mix freely with a sense of order and expectation. On some of the bigger roads leading into the city, walking bridges span four lanes of traffic, while speed bumps slow the vehicles on some highways.

Most cars we saw were small, with only a few late model vehicles dotting the streets. Almost all of the models were four-door and many could be seen carrying a full load, either inside or on the roof. Almost all of the commercial vehicles seemed older. They have no emission controls. Still, there were lines at gas stations.

People drove offensively, which means that the driver in the front seems to have the right of way. Sometimes, the right of way is determined in only a few feet or a matter of inches. It is debatable whether the horn was used for offensive or defensive purposes.

The police were usually not far away, but they didn’t seem to be around every corner. The only time we saw a police car flashing its lights was when it was escorting our team bus to practice or competition. Clearly, people appeared to feel safe and not concerned with crime on the streets.

Taxis were older model cars and were seen in ample supply in the center of the city. The trains appeared to be old and the train station in Sari showed its age. Regardless of the pace, everyone seemed to move about the city with direction and purpose. 

Many stores were small and merchants could be seen sitting on the walkways in front of their stores. Some were alone and others were engaged in conversation with neighboring merchants engaged in conversation. Their presence, even late at night, was a part of the city’s fabric.

In the early evening, the streets were alive with people. City buses were full and the sidewalks were crowded. Iranians were either winding their way home from work or stopping by a small store for a purchase. Vendors sold their goods from stands on the street. The air was vibrant and the city was in motion.

Away from the center of the city, on a small street, a man was squatting on a sidewalk fixing an old sewing machine while three women watched. Down the street, a handful of young boys were playing soccer in front of some houses. It was a pickup game with no goals, nets, or lines in the street. It was their field of play and they were fully engaged, enjoying every moment.  

A few doors away, a barber gave a haircut to another man. We were told that haircuts cost two dollars. The barber asked us to take a picture and we obliged. It is the way of life in this part of the world, to be friendly and express curiosity. Life moved at an orderly pace but strangers were quickly noticed, especially Americans.

Across the street from our practice facility, an art class with young children was in session. Kids were learning to paint and draw under the watchful eyes of a woman teacher. Some kids worked with paint and some with pastels. When we stepped inside to meet them they were all smiles.

The young teacher was friendly and encouraging to her students.  It was another reminder that art belongs to all people in all places, and that the ability to be creative may best be taught while we are young. We were also reminded that a warm smile is understood around the world.

The Competition

In its first year, the tournament was named after two legends in the history of Iranian wrestling, Imamali Habibi and Abdollah Movahhed. Both were Olympic Champions and together won 11 World Championships. Understandably, they are revered in Iran for their wrestling accomplishments. Today, both men live in America.  Only Habibi was  able to be present for the tournament and his presence was greatly celebrated.   

The competition drew wrestlers from several countries to include Belarus, Georgia, Bulgaria, Russia, Armenia, Kazakhstan and Azerbaijan. While most countries had one or two wrestlers per weight class, Iran had numerous wrestlers in each weight category. It was not designed as a dual competition. The brackets were filled with world class competitors.  

The venue was Habibi Stadium, an indoor facility that held about 3000 people. It filled quickly with knowledgeable and appreciative wrestling fans.  In no time, the drums and chants started to pulsate through the facility. The self-appointed cheerleaders took their jobs seriously, and the crowd responded loudly to the action. The place was loud and pulsated with the drums and crowd. 

Opening ceremonies were held on the first day and lasted for over an hour. Speeches were made and passages from the Koran were spoken over the public address.  Approximately 30 young wrestlers demonstrated wrestling moves with the precision of a drill team. There was music, singing, speeches and more music, before the wrestling began.

Security in the facility was a priority with our host. Outside the venue, policemen controlled every entrance to the building. They were the ticket takers and no one without a credential or a ticket was allowed to pass. The police were strategically positioned on the inside as well. No one seemed to question the authorities.

Billboard-sized pictures were on the walls of the venue.  Wrestlers competed near the pictures of Ayatollah Khomeini, Ayatollah Khamenei and Mahmoud Ahmadinejad.

A banner hung under the picture of the President. Printed in English and Farsi, it read, “Peaceful Nuclear Energy Is Our Definite Right.” Still, we came to wrestle and that remained the focus of our visit.

The Final Period

When the final whistle blew several thoughts remained.   

Wrestling in Iran brought people together and served as a conduit of cultural understanding. Many of the coaches knew each other and so did several of the wrestlers. The United States 120 kg wrestler, Tervel Dlagnev, moved to the United States from Bulgaria when he was four years old.  He enjoyed talking to members of the Bulgarian team. 

Wrestlers, like athletes in other disciplines, have mutual respect for each other around the world. Every wrestler can relate to the Olympic ideal of standing on the top step of the awards platform. Wrestlers appreciate other skilled wrestlers. They know what it takes to become the best you can be.  

Finally, to be the best program in the world, you have to wrestle against the best competition in the world, wherever it might be. This may require travel and competition away from home. Iran and the United States are two of the best teams in the world. We will likely see each other again in the Olympic Games and the World Championships. There is always the opportunity that we will meet again aside from these pinnacle events. If we do, our athletes will become better wrestlers in the process.

This is the nature of our sport.  

Monday, August 2

We have been in transit from the end of the awards ceremony yesterday until walking in the door a few minutes ago.  It was a long trip, but well worth the effort. Attached below are some details that may be of interest from the final day of competition in Iran on Sunday.

Notes on Sunday's competition in Iran: 

Tervel Dlagnev, 120 kg, and Raymond Jordan, 84 kg, set the pace for the United States on Sunday, winning silver medals in the final day of the Habibi & Movahhed Tournament in Qaemshahr, Iran on Sunday. Both compete for the Sunkist Kids.

Jordan began his day with a win over Pirouz Roudpodhti of Iran, 3-0, 1-1, scoring the deciding point in the final 15 seconds of the second period.  In his quarterfinal match against Mohammad Javad Ebrahimi of Iran, they traded clinches in the first two periods before Jordan’s conditioning proved to be the difference in the third period. Jordan won the match 1-0, 0-1, 5-0 with an aggressive attack in a convincing third period.

In the semi-finals against Omar Magomadov of Georgia, Jordan lost the first period off of the clinch, 0-1.  Jordan won the second period, 1-0, with a takedown in the final six seconds.  Jordan scored on two takedowns in the final 15 seconds of the final period for the 2-1 win. Again, Jordan's action in the final minute was too much for Magomadov. 

In the championship match against Asghar Basri of Iran, Jordan lost the first period 0-3 on a Basri takedown and a high gut wrench. In the second period, Basri attacked with a high single and had a 2-0 lead before Jordan scored a takedown near the end of the period.  Jordan lost the period 1-2 and which put him on the medal stand in second place.

In his opening match of the tournament, Dlagnev defeated Giorgi Nikuradze of Georgia 1-0, 2-0 with two takedowns and a counter. In the quarterfinals he beat Khashayar Dehestani of Iran, 4-2, 4-2, scoring on a takedown and a leg lace in the first period, before trading takedowns in the second period. Dehestani was one of 11 Iranian wrestlers out of 15 in this weight class.

In his semi-final match, Dlagnev beat Hadi Pouralijan of Iran, 1-0, 2-0.  Dlagnev won the first period on a the clinch.  In the second period, two takedowns in the final 30 seconds provided the margin.

Dlagnev, World Bronze Medalist in 2009, was beaten in the finals by World silver medalist Fardin Masoumi of Iran, 1-0, 3-2. Dlagnev’s well ran dry against Iranian opponents. Masoumi won the first period on the clinch and scored first in the second period with a takedown and an exposure from a gut wrench. A takedown and a leg lace by Dlagnev was not enough as Masoumi got his last point when Dlagnev appeared to have stepped out in action near the edge of the mat.

Masoumi was a clear crowd favorite in Habibi Stadium which was filled with approximately 3,000 rabid and appreciative fans. The cheering section was in full force for this one as Masoumi claimed the gold.
 
At 60 kg, Coleman Scott of the Gator Wrestling Club won a bronze medal, winning three matches and losing one on the day. In his opener, Scott beat Mehdi Ghorban of Iran, 1-0, 1-2, 1-0. Scott won the first period with a single leg takedown, but was caught in a leg wrap during the second period. He won the match with a last second takedown in the final period.

In the quarterfinals, Scott lost to Ebrahim Nairi of Iran, 0-1, 0-1.  Scott lost the first period on the clinch, and gave up a takedown with three seconds remaining in the second period.  In the repechage,  Scott downed Abbas Dabaghi of Iran, 1-1, 0-4, 2-1. Dabaghi's father was a six-time National Champion for Iran. In his bronze medal match, Scott was the aggressor beating Aref Alizadeh of Iran, 1-0, 2-0.   Scott drove Alizadeh out of bounds in the first period, and scrambled for two takedowns in the second period.  Scott won bronze in the U.S. Open and World Team Trials earlier this year.

At 74 kg, Trent Paulson of the Sunkist Kids finished with a bronze medal.  Paulson, a 2009 World Team member, looked strong in beating Kiril Terziev of Bulgaria, 7-0, 0-1, 3-2.  The first period was over in 44 seconds as Paulson locked Terziev's arm and rolled him three consecutive times. Terziev scored on the clinch to end the second period, while Paulson used a push-out and a turn for two points and the needed margin in the 3-2 win.

Paulson lost in the quarterfinals to Iman Mohammadian of Iran, losing the first period 0-1 off of the clinch by Mahammadian. In the second period, Paulson was taken down and turned before he could score a takedown, losing the period 1-3.  In the repechage, Paulson stunned Marad Zoidze of Georgia when he dumped him from his feet to his shoulders for an instantaneous fall. Paulson was leading 3-0 at that point.

In his bronze medal match against two-time World medalist Hasan Tahmasebi of Iran. Paulson won the first period on the clinch and stayed active throughout the second period winning it 5-0 finishing in third place.

Also at 120 kg, Tommy Rowlands of the Sunkist Kids, won his first match against Mohsen Dalili of Iran, 1-0, 1-0. Rowlands was relentless for his first period takedown, and scored the only point in the second period with a takedown in the first 15 seconds. Rowlands lost in the quarterfinals to Mohammad Pouralijan, Iran, 0-1, 1-3. Pouralijan won the first period with the clinch, and turned Rowlands after taking him down in the second period.

The United States finished third in the team standings behind Iran and Russia. The competition drew world-class wrestlers from several countries to include Belarus, Georgia, Bulgaria, Armenia, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Azerbaijan. While some countries had incomplete teams, with one or two wrestlers per weight class, Iran had several in each category.  For instance, at 66 kg, 13 of the 18 wrestlers were from Iran.

The tournament was named after two legends in the history of Iranian wrestling, Imamali Habibi and Abdollah Movahhed. Both were Olympic Champions and together won eleven World Championships. Understandably, they are revered in Iran for their wrestling accomplishments. Only Habibi was able to be present for the tournament and he was treated like royalty, as you might expect.

Like the competition, the hospitality was outstanding. The American wrestlers gained a highly valuable experience in the heartland of wrestling in Iran. They left for home immediately following the competition and arrived home today.